Hermitage Blanc de L`Oree, M. Chapoutier

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Chapoutier believes his 2000 Ermitage Cuvee de l`Oree is even better than his 1999. Its light medium gold color is accompanied by gorgeous aromas of flowery fruit, high levels of concentration, abundant muscle as well as structure, but a closed, backward style. Although voluminous and weighty in the mouth (and no doubt a 50-year wine), it is not as easy to see through its transparent expression of terroir as compared to the bottled 1999. Nevertheless, this is a compelling, full-bodied, massively-endowed white that should be even better after bottling. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.