Morey St Denis, Vieilles Vignes, Lignier-Michelot

Note:

Soy; herbal concentrates; as well as almond and pistachio oil, are allied with rich roasted meat juices and ripe red berries on a satisfyingly juicy palate in Lignier-Michelot’s 2007 Morey-St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes, which adds subtle smokiness to the array of fruit, nut oils, and herbal extracts in its finish. This displays a certain leanness I might more have expected from the 2008, but its persistent complexity should also hold up for at least half a dozen years in bottle. I found Lignier’s 2007 Chambolle premier cru “Cuvee Jules” oddly astringent and unknit as well as reduced in February, and did not have time to taste other of Virgile Lignier’s premier crus from that vintage.