Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, de Montille

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A strikingly marine and shrimp shell-tinged nose and palate with bright red currant and tart cherry fruit mark the de Montille 2008 Volnay Les Taillepieds, which allies white wine refreshment and minerality to intensely persistent fruit and a sort of turf-meets-surf finish that incorporates metaphorically dark, fungal forest floor shadings. Serving more for head-scratching than head-turning, this intriguing expression of its great site nonetheless incorporates a subtly satiny texture thanks to its ultra-fine tannins, and in the course of the coming 12-15 years one can expect its incipient sensuality to rise to its level of fascinating complexity, and for it to serve adeptly at table.