Tag Archives: Pinot Noir

Rippon Vineyards Pinot Noir

Leave a reply

Burgundy is expensive – that is a fact.  Prices so far for the 2015 Burgundy vintage look very strong indeed and the 2016 Burgundy vintage is a tiny one – this can only put more pressure on pricing.  Where this really hurts is at village level: decent village Vosne or Gevrey can set you back £500 a case these days; premier cru wines even more.

This leaves the Pinot lover with a problem: what do you buy for decent drinking?  We have an answer.

New Zealand Pinot Noir can be one of the easiest wines to pick out in a blind tasting.  Why?  Because so much of it simply tastes the same.  It’s like there’s a formula, and a desire, to replicate the same flavour profiles again and again.  And they can be a bit boring.  The wines of Rippon Vineyards are a little different: these are wines with an inimitable character all of their own, and a very classy one at that.  This isn’t lookalike red Burgundy, but the wines share a silkiness, a structure (and an alcohol level).  These are wines for those that love the seductive elegance that only Pinot can achieve.

In style the wines are fresh, silky, and elegant with real energy, a distinct tannic structure and saline, mineral notes that set them apart from the rest of the field.  The vines are grown (biodynamically) on schist-based soils.  The mature vine Pinot Noir is the estate’s signature wine, and there are two single vineyard wines – “Emma’s Block” and “Tinkers Field” – with two quite distinct characters.  “Emma’s Block” faces east, on clay-schist soils, and is the more feminine, floral wine.  “Tinkers Field” comes from the estate’s oldest vines, planted on a north facing schist slope (n.b. southern hemisphere) and this is the more powerful and structured of the two – you could say Chambolle-Musigny vs Vosne-Romanee, but it is important to impress that these wines are very much products of their own quite unique terroir.

We can currently offer the following wines; please do contact us for more information.

2012 Rippon Vineyards Mature Vine Pinot Noir
GBP 325 per case (12×75) in bond

“Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2012 Pinot Noir has a very earthy nose over notions of blackcurrants, blackberries and red plums with accents of anise and pepper. Intensely flavored in the medium bodied mouth with tight-knit concentration and sturdy tannins, it finishes long and earthy. 92+”  Wine Advocate

2012 Rippon Vineyards Emma’s Block Mature Vine Pinot Noir
GBP 455 per case (12×75) in bond

“Medium ruby-purple colored, the 2012 Emma’s Block Pinot Noir has lovely red cherry, crushed raspberry and red currant notes with underlying hints of rose hip tea and lilacs. Medium bodied, elegant and with great finesse on the palate, it offers lovely silly tannins supporting the fruit through the long finish.  94+.”  The Wine Advocate

2012 Rippon Vineyards Tinkers Field Mature Vine Pinot Noir
GBP 530 per case (12×75) in bond

“Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the 2012 Tinker’s Field Pinot Noir is bit closed at this youthful stage offering glimpses at the blackberry and black cherry aromas with touches of fertile loam and dried herbs. Medium bodied, the concentrated flavors are taut and muscular at this youthful stage with lots of background layers and a firm foundation of grainy tannins, finishing with great length.  94+.”  The Wine Advocate

Please do get in touch if you would like to learn more about these lovely wines.

Rippon Vineyards

Richebourg

Leave a reply

Richebourg

After Romanée St Vivant, Richebourg is the largest of the Vosne-Romanée grand crus at just over eight hectares. It probably comes in just after La Tâche in terms of greatness, though is at least relatively affordable after La Tâche, La Romanée and La Romanée-Conti.

Domaine de La Romanée-Conti own almost half of the vineyard; their holding is split into five parcels, the largest of which is at the southern end of the vineyard, contiguous to La Romanée and La Romanée-Conti. Along with Domaine Leroy, this is the Daddy of all Richebourgs. And “Daddy” is apt: Richebourg is all about opulence, richesse and weight.

The Gros family hold the next largest share: between Domaines Gros Frère & Soeur, Anne Gros & AF Gros they hold just under two hectares, located at the northern end of the vineyard that borders Vosne Les Brulées. Thibault Liger-Belair has just over half a hectare, Domaines Méo-Camuzet, Jean Grivot, Mongeard Mugneret and Hudelot-Noellat all have around or just under a third of a hectare, and Bichot have just 0.07 of a hectare in the north-east corner of the vineyard between Cros Parentoux and Les Brulées.

In terms of style, Richebourg is probably Pinot Noir at its most muscular and opulent. La Romanée and La Romanée-Conti are probably finer; La Tâche more intense. Le Musigny is softer, Chambertin more strict.

As with all grand cru Burgundy, there isn’t much of it. The biggest producer – DRC – makes around 1,000 cases per year. Bichot’s Domaine du Clos Frantin, with just 0.07 of a hectare, make less than 100. This is rare wine.

Our current availability from this brilliant vineyard can be seen HERE.  Please do get in touch if you would like to discuss the wines, the vineyards, the domaines – or anything else Richebourg related – further.

Calera Winery

Calera Offer

Leave a reply

Iconic Pinot Noir & Chardonnay.

We believe that the world’s greatest Pinot Noir are made in two places: the Cote de Nuits in Burgundy – and on Mount Harlan in California, by Josh Jensen’s team at Calera.  We are therefore very proud to offer a small selection of wines from one of our favourite growers, and hope to be able to offer a wider ranger wines in the near future.

 

2010     Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir   96/100 Wine Advocate         £480 IB / case of 6

The transparent ruby-colored 2010 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard has considerable structure and depth hiding under all of its texture and richness. Offering up notions of sweet cherries, strawberry, underbrush, crushed flowers and chalky minerality, it has a massive mid-palate, incredible purity and a seamless, elegant overall profile. It, too, will have 10-12 years or more of prime drinking. Drink now-2025.

 

2010     Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir   94/100 Wine Advocate         £300 DP / case of 6

A larger scaled, structured effort that oozes kirsch, strawberry, raspberry, incense and liquid flower-like aromas and flavors, the 2010 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard hits the palate with a full-bodied, voluptuously textured feel before firming up considerably on the finish with layers of tannin. It’s a beauty, but needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will shine through 2025+. Drink 2015-2025+.

 

2012     Central Coast Pinot Noir     90/100 Wine Advocate         £ 132 IB / case of 6

The only 2012 Pinot Noir I was able to taste, the straight 2012 Pinot Noir Central Coast is 95% destemmed and spent 11 months in 10% new French oak. A superb value, it gives up ripe berry fruits, flowers, underbrush and rose petal-like nuances in a medium-bodied, ripe, textured and balanced profile. It’s a knockout quaffer to enjoy over the coming 2-4 years.

RV note – Medium ruby coloured with a floral scent which hints at rose petal and herb.  Lovely palate with sappy, perfumed pure Pinot fruit that really coats the mouth.  Fresh orange, cherry and raspberry flavours, silky and plush textured.  The finish hints at plums and cream.  Best served cool.

 

2012     Central Coast Viognier        89/100 Wine Advocate         £ 96 IB / case of 6

The 2012 Viognier Central Coast is another rocking value to not be missed. Apricot, marmalade, orange blossom and flower oil-like aromas and flavors all flow nicely to a medium-bodied, richly textured white that’s geared for enjoying over the coming year.

 

2012     Central Coast Chardonnay 90/100 Wine Advocate         £ 102 IB / case of 6

Calera’s 2012 Chardonnay Central Coast offers classic ripe apple and orchard fruits, creme and brioche in a medium-bodied, vibrant and clean style. Aged in 10% new French oak for 10 months, buy this beauty by the case and drink it over the coming couple of years.

 

2012     Mt Harlan Chardonnay        94/100 Wine Advocate         £ 162 IB / case of 6

~Limited Availability~

Showing more tension and energy, the 2012 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan is an incredible effort that exudes ripe apple, white peach, white flowers and mint aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied and elegantly styled, the acidity is beautifully integrated, and the wine builds in richness and depth with time in the glass. Coming from limestone soils, 100% barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in 30% new French oak, it’s a brilliant Chardonnay to drink over the coming 4-5 years.

RV note – Pale gold coloured.  The 2012 Mt Harlan Chardonnay evolved considerably over the course of an evening. Initially reserved on the nose with cool apple, flint and mint notes, it later opened up considerably, offering rich orchard fruit and spice elements.  Likewise on the palate the wine ranged from racy and fresh at the point of being poured, through opulent and peachy.   It finally closed down toward the end of the evening becoming more “Burgundian” and mineral – at one point it seemed to have moved close in flavour profile to the Lafon Meursault ‘Clos de la Barre’ it was paired with.

 

 

The Calera story is an intriguing one and highlights why self-confessed Burgundy addicts like ourselves feel such affinity for this winery.  In the late 1960s, the founder of Calera, Josh Jensen was studying Anthropology at Oxford.  Having grown up in the San Francisco bay area, Jensen was already deeply interested in wine and whilst in Europe decided to pursue his passion for Burgundy, working on two harvests at the Domaine de la Romanée Conti (in 1970) and at Domaine Dujac (in 1971).

 

The impression this made was indelible: Jensen returned to California with the intention of finding a unique terroir and climate suitable for the production of great Pinot Noir.  His search took 2 years.  In 1974 Jensen finally purchased a high-elevation parcel of land on Mt Harlan, some 2200 ft above sea level.  In addition to being one of the coolest vineyard sites in California, Mount Harlan is blessed with limestone rich soil – which Jensen knew was key to the great Burgundies of the Côte d’Or.

 

The land Jensen bought, practically speaking, was a nightmare for the aspiring vigneron – there were no paved roads to the property; no electricity, no phone lines and little water.  Nevertheless he persevered: The first harvest for Pinot Noir at Calera was 1978.  By 1983 Jensen had also planted a small amount of Viognier (doubtless influenced by a passion for Chateau Grillet) and shortly afterward in 1984 he planted 6 acres of Chardonnay, complementing Calera’s Burgundy inspired Pinots.

 

If Jensen’s visionary belief inspired the birth of Calera, today’s wines are testament to the fruition of that dream.  Calera’s Pinot Noirs are distinctly delicate and composed in comparison with the overwhelming majority of Pinot Noirs from Sonoma and Napa.  The cool Mt Harlan and central coast vineyard sites ensure all of Calera’s Pinot Noirs are blessed with a fresh acidity that showcases limestone derived minerality and savoury nuance.  The winery makes 7 Pinot Noirs in total – the Central Coast wine offered above – and six single vineyard wines we hope to be able to offer in due course…..

 

Calera also produces world-class white wines from Chardonnay, Viognier and even a tiny amount of Aligote – a varietal seldom seen outside of Burgundy !   The elegance and restraint of Calera’s Pinot Noirs is echoed by the style of their white wines.  The Central Coast Chardonnay and Mt Harlan Chardonnay both offer the kind of racy, fresh fruit that is more often seen in Burgundy than California, whilst the Viognier offers a laid-back and subtle representation of a grape variety that can make wines that are ‘in your face’.

 

 

Wine Tasting, RAC Club

Wine tasting 1 at the RAC Club

Leave a reply

A private dinner ‘a deux’

Generously hosted by noted collector ‘Clive St Hune’.   As ever, Clive was thinking – and drinking – big.   All the wines drank during dinner and afterward were served to me blind.  Having discussed white Burgundy at some length in the beautiful courtyard at the RAC I had arrived at certain conclusions about the nature of the wine tasting before putting a glass to my lips, thus setting myself up for an embarrassing start to the evening…

I initially distinguished myself by (miss)identifying 2006 Camel Valley Bachus firstly as Chablis, secondly as Alsace Riesling and finally as Savennières, before retiring from the fray with my pride and professional reputation in tatters. Clive looked on benevolently, highly amused by my ineptitude.  To be fair I am not served 8 year old English wines very often.  In fact not ever, until now.

The Great Gallery restaurant at the RAC Club, which I’d never been to before, is, incidentally, magnificent and the service was impeccable.  Our waiter dealt with the pressing requirement for 3 starters each (preceding our main courses naturally) with equanimity and even nonchalance; meanwhile the sommelier was fully briefed to keep the considerable array of bottles coming at regular intervals.  Before readers baulk at what may sound an implausibly large volume of alcohol, I should say we absolutely did not drink the whole of every bottle which was served !

Two wines were opened but were not served on the basis that they were oxidised – both Sauzet 1er Cru from the mid 1990s.  Sadly this was not a surprise to my host or I.

2006 Bacchus, Camel Valley
90/100 (RV)
Pale colour.   Crisp, taut scent with notes of green fruit and quince.   Very good on the palate with modest weight but very good intensity – before (metaphorically) falling on my sword I was convinced I recognised the briskness of Chablis, the aromatics of a (fine) dry Riesling and finally the quince notes of Savennières.   Crisp and long.  Nice.

………………..Thereafter the evening settled down into more familiar territory, as follows:

1983 Tokay Pinot Gris ‘Rangen de Thann’, Vendange Tardive, Zind Humbrecht
90/100 (RV)
Full gold colour with hints of orange.  Rich honey and quince aromatics with smokey spice notes emerging.  This initially smelled a bit oxidised and soapy / flat, but freshened considerably in the glass.  Full bodied with creamy quince and baked apple flavour.   Just fractionally sherried but still pretty delicious.  Also savoury and smokey.  Clive commented that it was fresher than several other bottles he’d had recently.

2004 Le Montrachet, Laguiche (Drouhin)
93/100 (RV)
Pale gold colour.  A big blast of rich orchard fruit – ‘essence of Chardonnay’ on the nose.  I took this to be old fashioned white Burgundy – but did not guess it as Montrachet.  Notes of apricot and peach.  Initially big and creamy, but slightly grubby.   The waxy note blew away to reveal an impeccable, full bodied Chardonnay with the hint of diesel that you can find in Le Montrachet.  Tightening in the glass over the course of evening, it became a very serious wine, although not one with the race or definition for greatness.   Very good.

2001 Le Montrachet, Laguiche (Drouhin)
88/100 (RV)
The second of a pairing obviously, but not recognisable as the same wine.  Full gold colour suggesting a much older wine.  Rich with scents of honey, butter and even burnt toffee.  Overblown palate with pear and peach flavours.  Big but no hint of Grand Cru finesse.   Is this a bottle which is out of condition or is it typical ? If the latter it is a huge disappointment.  Drinkable and still pleasurable if your taste run to the riper and richer end of the spectrum but sub-par for Montrachet on this showing.

1996 Puligny Montrachet, Leflaive
94/100 (RV)
Pale, bright lemon colour.   Super pure on the nose with hints of gravel, lavender and citrus.  Hints of smokey matchstick also.  Really fine, long and pure.   Without the flesh of the 2004 Montrachet but has more race, freshness and elegance.  Lovely dry mineral and limeflower finish.  I took this to be a considerably grander wine.  A welcome reminder of how good mature white Burgundy can be, even at village level.

2008 Pinot Noir, Ryan Vineyard, Calera
91/100 (RV)
Moderate ruby colour with no obvious sign of ageing.   Very attractive fresh strawberry notes running through to deeper notes of mulberry and spice.   Medium bodied but ripe and round with lush Pinot Fruit.  Nice finish of orchard fruit and honey.  Not fully mature, but delicious because of the silky texture.

1989 Riesling Clos St Hune Vendange Tardive “Hors Choix”
94(+?)/100 (RV)
I wish we’d tasted this earlier in the night as possibly (make that very likely) my palate was jaded by this point ! – thus my score in parentheses.   Modest gold colour.   Fullish bodied, but very fresh, creamy and ripe, with lovely candied orange flavour turning to beeswax and cream at the finish.  Lovely.  Really delicious but I am not sure I was capable of fully discerning the finesse of this wine after its predecessors and four food courses.

A heartfelt thanks goes out to my host, Clive, for a great evening in every respect !