Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, #14, Schaefer

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“This came from more concentrated material [than the A.P. #11] with a higher percentage of botrytis,” explained Schaefer. Quince jelly, marzipan and penetratingly pungent anise and caraway distillates inform the nose and the glossy, glycerol-rich palate. Intriguingly, though – perhaps as a function of botrytis influence – there is an underlying firmness of texture in contrast with A.P. #11’s creaminess. I was not wrong in anticipating a confectionary finish, but from somewhere the wine also manages to pull a counteracting modicum of primary pear and apple juiciness to balance its richness and sweetness. Moreover, a sense of bittersweet green herbal concentration enhances the balance and complexity of this remarkably persistent libation. It should prove especially fascinating and worthwhile to follow (though certainly you don’t have to be in a pinch to open a bottle now).