Muganazzi, Etna Bianco, Graci

Note:

This probably won’t be quite a long-lived as the Arcuria; I don’t think it is quite as dense or powerful……and the Arcuria will probably end up the better wine – but I think it is a shade ‘prettier’ especially if you open it right now.  Monica Larner’s comment that the character is white citrus, pomelo and crushed stone is absolutely spot on IMO.  This absolutely dances over one’s palate.  To use a Burgundy (or rather Chablis) analogy, think of Montee de Tonnere as the more serious Arcuria, vs frivolous Blanchots as Muganazzi.  Only these wines are way more salty and aren’t wearing any cosmetics (oak and batonage) in the way that a lot of Chablis does.  This tantalises the tongue.  Layers of mineral, smoke, pink grapefruit.  So damn good, but what on earth does Monica Larner mean about ‘hydrocarbons’ ??? (Renaissance) // The Graci 2022 Etna Bianco Muganazzi has a different character altogether. Instead of the orchard fruit that we saw in the Arcurìa, the Muganazzi shows pithy white citrus, pomelo fruit and lots of crushed stone and mineral. The defining feature of the wine is those volcanic nuances that should turn toward hydrocarbons as the wine continues its bottle evolution. (Monica Larner)