Barbaresco, Santo Stefano, Red Label Riserva, Giacosa


(Released in 2003) Medium red. Deep, expressive aromas of red fruits, minerals, dried flowers, roasted herbs, tar and camphor; I might have picked this blind as Barolo. Complex, penetrating, traditionally made wine with great verve and insinuating inner-mouth perfume. Urgent cherry, floral and spice flavours. Hugely tannic and very long; this multidimensional Barbaresco went into a shell in the glass. My score may prove to be conservative.